Mt Makalu Expedition - 60 to 65 days

Mt Makalu Expedition - 60 to 65 days

Mt Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at 8,463m. It is an isolated peak, located just 22 km east of Mount Everest & Situated between Everest and Kanchenjunga, on the Nepali-Tibetan border. Its size alone is impressive, but its structure, that of a perfect pyramid with four sharp ridges, makes this mountain all the more spectacular.

It has proved to be not only a beautiful peak but also challenging and potentially dangerous mountain climb, as only five of its first sixteen attempts were successful. Previously, it had been admired and studied by several Everest parties, but like so many other giants in the Khumbu region, it was not attempted until the summit of Everest had been attained in 1954. it was first climbed by the French in 1955

Our expedition we'll trek from Tumlingtar, just above the ARUN River to Makalu Base Camp at approximately 5100 meters. We'll ascend via the Northwest Ridge establishing 4 high camps on the mountain. Our strong & professional high altitude climbing sherpas will fix ropes as required. Depending on our fitness, we'll be moving up and down the mountain several times, acclimatizing and stocking the higher camps. This expedition is fully supported with all the base camp & high camp services. The team work is most important factor to scale the summit of Mt Makalu.

Chomo Lonzo (7,818 m/25,650 ft.) is a subsidiary peak of Makalu, rising just north of the higher summit, separated by a narrow saddle.

Fact Box

Other names/spellings : Makalufeng

Elevation (feet) : 27,765

Elevation (meters) : 8,462

Location : Khumbu Region, Himalaya Tibet - Nepal

Latitude : 27? 53' N

Longitude : 87? 05' E

Best Climbing Months : April, May (pre-monsoon) & Late September, October (post-monsoon)

Year First Climbed : 1955

First Climber(s) : J. Franco's French Expedition

Convenient Center(s) : Hille, Nepal via Dharan Bazar

Trekking and Climbing Itineraries

Day 1 : We fly to Tumlingtar from Kathmandu and land on the long plateau. Our trek begins as we head up the trail to the town of Khaadbari at 3,500 ft.
Day 2 : We trek along the ridge through the town of Manebhanjyang (3700 ft.) to Chichila.
Day 3 : From Chichila we continue through a glorious mixed broadleaf verdant hobbit forest. We pass through the village of Mude at 6,500 ft. We head north along the West side of the ridge. The trail consists of red mud (rato mato). We then reach our destination for the day ? Num, at 4,920 ft.
Day 4 : We descend through incredibly lush jungle on the east side of the valley and cross the Arun Khola at 2,260 ft. We then climb up to Sedua at 5,000 ft.
Day 5 : From Sedua we ascend a ridge with valleys on both sides, Ipsuwa Khola to the west and Kasuwa Khola to the east. We enter Sherpa country and begin to notice Sherpa homes clustered on the hillsides. We then gradually ascend to 6,860 ft. and the village of Tashigaon, also known as "Luck Village."
Day 6 : Today we head north, crossing many streams as we travel through a dense cloud forest. Overhead, the trees are adorned with orchids. At 10,140 ft., we reach a notch and officially enter the Makalu-Barun national Park. We leave the forested ridge crest and descend into more open country on the west side of the ridge. Our campsite for the evening is at Kongma Danda.
Day 7 : From Kongma, we continue along the ridge and past Gongrua La. The views on this day are spectacular: the trail is streamed with prayer flags and views of Makalu, Chamlang, Baruntse, Kangchenjunga and Jannu tower overhead. We reach Sano Pokhari (12,720 ft.), which means "Little Lake," where the reflection of the nearby peaks are stunning. We then begin climbing the first of two passes, Tutu La at 13,875 ft. and then descend slightly to Thulo Pokhari, the magical lake. The trail climbs again to the Kekela at 13,725 ft. where there are spectacular views of Tibet. We then descend through Fir, Rhododendron and Birch forest to Mambuk and place our camp at approximately 11,000 ft.
Day 8 : Today we descend slightly and heap up the valley in the Barun canyon where one can see glimpses of the "Great Black One," Makalu. We pass panting and tare through open meadows among forests of silver fir and birch to our camping ground at Yang Kharkov, 11,800 ft. The views of the nearby ice covered peaks are impressive.
Day 9 : The path contours around the Barun canyon along a serene pasture. There is a remote cave up high in the rocks where Guru Rimpoche stayed. During the fall moon of August in the monsoon, there is a festival held here in which people will go up to the cave, where it is said that if you are infertile or barren and do a puja, you will bear children. There are the sheer cliffs to the south and the one on the right is the mother and the one on the left, the father. We then cross the Barun Khola to a quiet, peaceful valley. There are many waterfalls which cascade off the canyon walls (if not frozen). We reach the point called Ripu Maidaan at 13,040 ft. and cross many tributaries to Tadosa, meaning "horse tie," where Shiva tied his steed. We continue to Jark Kharka with its roofed hut, near the upper limit of the forest at Jark Kharka, 13,850 ft. We continue over a ridge for a view of the Barun Glacier and then to a string of stone enclosures and a designated campsite at Merek, at 15,000 ft.
Day 10 : We continue on to Shershong at 15,450 ft. We trek back north, up the valley and beneath the south face of Makalu into the "throne of the gods." We arrive at base camp at 15,825 ft.
Days 11-46 : Arrive at Base camp, elevation 15,825 ft., and establish camp. We have 36 days to establish four camps, properly acclimatize and summit Makalu. This leaves plenty of time to make several summit attempts. Camp I is located up the Chago glacier at 6150m. Camp II will be placed at the foot of the west face at 7000m. We climb the west face to gain the northwest ridge at Makalu La and the site of camp III at 7500m. Camp IV will be placed on our summit push at 7850m. Summit day we climb the remaining 613m up the couloir to gain the final ridge at the summit.
Day 47 : Fly out via helicopter from basecamp to Kathmandu or trek back same way to Tumlingtar & fly out for Kathmandu.
OPTIONAL ITINERARY :
Days Description
01 Fly to Tumlingtar
02 Trek to Mani Bhanjyang; Camping
03 Trek to Chichila; Camping
04 Trek to Mure/Num; Camping
05 Trek to Murmi Danda/Sedua Area; Camping
06 Trek to Tashigaon; Camping
07 Rest Day
08 Trek to Unshisha; Camping
09 Trek to Khongma; Camping
10 Trek to Nghe Kharka/Mumbuk; Camping
11 Trek to Merek Langmale Kharka; Camping
12 Trek to Makalu base camp; Camping
13 Makalu base camp; Camping
14-49 Climbing period for Mt Makalu
50-60 Treks back to Timlingtar
61 Fly out from Timlingtar to KTM.
62 Free Day for Shooping & Evening celebration time
63 Free day for explore the City
64 Depart home or Extension of trip

Summit/ABC Services Cost - Please email us to receive for cost & more information
Departure Date: Will be arranged on request

SERVICE INCLUDES
Peak permit, all govt. taxes & garbage deposit.
Peak permit, all govt. taxes & garbage deposit.
6 (four) nights hotel in Kathmandu on twin sharing BB basis.
Round trip airfare and domestic airport taxes
Timlingtar-BC-Timlingtar en-route trek with necessary accommodation
Custom clearances, excess baggage's and airport taxes
Liaison office
One head Sardar/Guide
Cook(s) and kitchen boy(s)
High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (One Sherpa per three clients).
Necessary number of porters
All necessary climbing hardware gears
All base camp meals + high altitude food (Back pack brand)
All necessary camping and kitchen gears
High quality tents for both base camp and high camps
Gamov bag for medical propose
Oxygen with regulator set for medical purpose
Walkie-talkie set with radio base
Necessary EPI gas with burner
Solar panel with batteries/ generator with fuel for power supply
Arun Down jackets/sleeping bags for BC, if required
Insurance of climbing Sherpa and local team members
All airport/hotel transfers
City sight seen before the expedition
SERVICE EXCLUDES
Medical and personal high risk insurance,
Major meals in Kathmandu.
Personal climbing gears.
Personal natures of expenses
Cost of electronic appliances.
Cost of emergency evacuation
Helicopter charter to and from Makalu base camp
Tips & summit bonus